{"id":15230,"date":"2020-01-17T10:27:42","date_gmt":"2020-01-17T14:27:42","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/blogs.library.duke.edu\/rubenstein\/?p=15230"},"modified":"2020-01-17T10:27:42","modified_gmt":"2020-01-17T14:27:42","slug":"rubenstein-library-test-kitchen-cooking-with-duke-power","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/blogs.library.duke.edu\/rubenstein\/2020\/01\/17\/rubenstein-library-test-kitchen-cooking-with-duke-power\/","title":{"rendered":"Rubenstein Library Test Kitchen: Cooking with Duke Power"},"content":{"rendered":"<p><em>Post contributed by Ashton Merck, Graduate Intern for the Hartman Center for Sales, Advertising, and Marketing History<br \/>\n<\/em><\/p>\n<p>In the mid-twentieth century, the Duke Power Company Home Service wished its customers a \u201cMerry Christmas\u201d and a \u201cHappy New Year\u201d with an annual collection of holiday recipes.<\/p>\n<figure id=\"attachment_15239\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-15239\" style=\"width: 883px\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"wp-image-15239 size-full\" src=\"http:\/\/blogs.library.duke.edu\/rubenstein\/files\/2020\/01\/ashton_covers.png\" alt=\"Covers of two Duke Power cookbooks. Both feature their mascot, a stick figure made of lightning bolts.\" width=\"883\" height=\"609\" srcset=\"https:\/\/blogs.library.duke.edu\/rubenstein\/files\/2020\/01\/ashton_covers.png 883w, https:\/\/blogs.library.duke.edu\/rubenstein\/files\/2020\/01\/ashton_covers-300x207.png 300w, https:\/\/blogs.library.duke.edu\/rubenstein\/files\/2020\/01\/ashton_covers-768x530.png 768w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 883px) 100vw, 883px\" \/><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-15239\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">\u201cMerry Christmas,\u201d circa 1950s (Item 1950s-0499); \u201cRecipes,\u201d circa 1950s (Item 1950s-0504)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<p>The John W. Hartman Center has at least two of these pamphlets in the <a href=\"https:\/\/library.duke.edu\/rubenstein\/findingaids\/petersoncookbooks\/\">Nicole di Bona Peterson Collection of Advertising Cookbooks<\/a>. These cookbooks focused almost exclusively on holiday baking. One cookbook included separate sections for cakes, pies, candy, cookies, and desserts, while \u201csalads, sandwiches, and breads\u201d were combined into one category.<\/p>\n<p>In the spirit of the holiday season, I decided that I would give one of these recipes a try. Quite a few of them looked recognizable as something my great-grandmothers used to make, like \u201cCheery Cherry Cake\u201d or \u201cSkillet Cookies.\u201d Others, like a \u201cChocolate Yule Log\u201d \u2013 which involved an unholy combination of mashed potatoes, confectioner\u2019s sugar, and shredded coconut \u2013 sounded completely inedible. But one recipe, for \u201cSpiced Cherry Bells,\u201d caught my eye. Somewhat inexplicably, the recipe called for ginger and instant coffee, in lieu of the usual holiday spices like cinnamon, allspice, or nutmeg. It also required more advanced assembly than the other cookies or cakes, through the creation of the \u201cbell\u201d shape. It seemed like something that was unusual enough to be worth trying.<\/p>\n<figure id=\"attachment_15233\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-15233\" style=\"width: 474px\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"wp-image-15233 size-large\" src=\"http:\/\/blogs.library.duke.edu\/rubenstein\/files\/2020\/01\/2019-12-10-0003-scaled-e1579021161527-1024x579.jpg\" alt=\"Original recipe\" width=\"474\" height=\"268\" srcset=\"https:\/\/blogs.library.duke.edu\/rubenstein\/files\/2020\/01\/2019-12-10-0003-scaled-e1579021161527-1024x579.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/blogs.library.duke.edu\/rubenstein\/files\/2020\/01\/2019-12-10-0003-scaled-e1579021161527-300x169.jpg 300w, https:\/\/blogs.library.duke.edu\/rubenstein\/files\/2020\/01\/2019-12-10-0003-scaled-e1579021161527-768x434.jpg 768w, https:\/\/blogs.library.duke.edu\/rubenstein\/files\/2020\/01\/2019-12-10-0003-scaled-e1579021161527.jpg 1177w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 474px) 100vw, 474px\" \/><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-15233\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">\u201cSpiced Cherry Bells,\u201d from \u201cMerry Christmas\u201d cookbook<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<p>As soon as I mixed the dry ingredients, it was clear that there was not enough of either the ginger or the instant coffee to overcome the 3 \u00bd cups of flour called for in the recipe. I took note of that fact, but did not adjust the recipe for my taste, resisting the temptation to add copious amounts of cinnamon and nutmeg. I next realized that the ingredients as mixed was simply too crumbly to form a stable dough that I could roll out, even with the use of a stand mixer. I had to add about another 1\/8 cup of heavy cream to get the dough to come together. Even still, it called for so much shortening that it was tricky to roll out to the thickness specified. I eventually managed to get the cookies onto the (mercifully, ungreased) cookie sheet, where I shaped them into something that, if you squint your eyes, could be imagined as \u201cbells.\u201d I then baked them for the allotted time of 15 minutes.<\/p>\n<p>I considered what the small quantity of the \u201cspices\u201d might indicate about the time and place in which this recipe was created, and imagined several possible hypotheses: Perhaps instant coffee or ginger were expensive or hard to come by; or, the far more likely scenario, they were so ubiquitous that they might already be in the pantry anyway. That got me thinking \u2013 when was instant coffee invented? Could it have been a new or trendy product at the time?<\/p>\n<p>For an initial answer to these questions, I requested a box from the <a href=\"https:\/\/library.duke.edu\/rubenstein\/findingaids\/jwtcompetitiveads\/\">J. Walter Thompson \u201cCompetitive Advertisements\u201d collection<\/a>. The ads in the folders depicted instant coffee drinkers as married couples engaged in energetic outdoor activities or home improvement projects, like this campaign from 1956:<\/p>\n<figure id=\"attachment_15236\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-15236\" style=\"width: 474px\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"wp-image-15236 size-large\" src=\"http:\/\/blogs.library.duke.edu\/rubenstein\/files\/2020\/01\/2019-12-10-0006-502x1024.jpg\" alt=\"Vintage advertisement for instant coffee. Illustrated with a picture of a woman pouring coffee for a man. The headline reads &quot;Richer Coffee Instantly!&quot;\" width=\"474\" height=\"967\" srcset=\"https:\/\/blogs.library.duke.edu\/rubenstein\/files\/2020\/01\/2019-12-10-0006-502x1024.jpg 502w, https:\/\/blogs.library.duke.edu\/rubenstein\/files\/2020\/01\/2019-12-10-0006-147x300.jpg 147w, https:\/\/blogs.library.duke.edu\/rubenstein\/files\/2020\/01\/2019-12-10-0006-768x1565.jpg 768w, https:\/\/blogs.library.duke.edu\/rubenstein\/files\/2020\/01\/2019-12-10-0006-754x1536.jpg 754w, https:\/\/blogs.library.duke.edu\/rubenstein\/files\/2020\/01\/2019-12-10-0006-1005x2048.jpg 1005w, https:\/\/blogs.library.duke.edu\/rubenstein\/files\/2020\/01\/2019-12-10-0006-scaled.jpg 1256w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 474px) 100vw, 474px\" \/><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-15236\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">\u201cWhen the Moment Calls for Coffee,\u201d Hot Beverages \u2013 Coffee (1 of 2), 1956, Box 1956-15, Competitive Advertisements 1955-1997, J. Walter Thompson Company, Rubenstein Library, Duke University.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"wp-image-15237 alignright\" src=\"http:\/\/blogs.library.duke.edu\/rubenstein\/files\/2020\/01\/2019-12-10-0007-scaled-e1579211901211-227x1024.jpg\" alt=\"Advertisment Martinsons Instant Coffe, featuring &quot;Swedish Beef Puffs&quot;\" width=\"149\" height=\"672\" srcset=\"https:\/\/blogs.library.duke.edu\/rubenstein\/files\/2020\/01\/2019-12-10-0007-scaled-e1579211901211-227x1024.jpg 227w, https:\/\/blogs.library.duke.edu\/rubenstein\/files\/2020\/01\/2019-12-10-0007-scaled-e1579211901211-341x1536.jpg 341w, https:\/\/blogs.library.duke.edu\/rubenstein\/files\/2020\/01\/2019-12-10-0007-scaled-e1579211901211-455x2048.jpg 455w, https:\/\/blogs.library.duke.edu\/rubenstein\/files\/2020\/01\/2019-12-10-0007-scaled-e1579211901211.jpg 550w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 149px) 100vw, 149px\" \/><\/p>\n<p>From looking at these ads, it seemed like instant coffee was one of many \u201cconvenience foods\u201d that became tastier and more widely available in the post-WWII era, along with TV dinners and canned foods. I then requested another box from the <a href=\"https:\/\/library.duke.edu\/rubenstein\/findingaids\/achenbaumalvin\/\">Alvin Achenbaum collection<\/a>, which contained several market research studies on coffee. The studies further emphasized that consumers valued instant coffee primarily for its convenience and low cost.<\/p>\n<p>I also noticed that a few ads included recipes that contained small amounts of instant coffee, like this one for Swedish Beef Puffs at right.<\/p>\n<p>But these ads were few and far between. As I perused the market research, I looked to see if the consultants recommended promotion of alternate uses of instant coffee in recipes, or baking, but they did not. Instead, the market researchers were far more interested in carefully segmenting the coffee buying market by their tastes and preferences, rather than by inventing new and creative uses for the product.<\/p>\n<p>So, after this investigation \u2013 using Rubenstein collections, of course \u2013 it seems that instant coffee was already cheap and ubiquitous by the time it made it into the \u201cSpiced Cherry Bells,\u201d but the choice to use it in a recipe might have seemed as unusual then as it does now.<\/p>\n<p><strong>The Verdict<\/strong>: The cookies were \u2026 okay. The flavor of the baked, slightly caramelized maraschino cherry was delicious, and the \u201cfilling\u201d mixture which called for pecans, brown sugar, and butter was something of a foolproof combination. But, as I expected, neither the instant coffee nor the ginger came through at all in the final bake.<\/p>\n<figure id=\"attachment_15241\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-15241\" style=\"width: 474px\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"wp-image-15241 size-large\" src=\"http:\/\/blogs.library.duke.edu\/rubenstein\/files\/2020\/01\/finished_cookies-1024x768.jpg\" alt=\"Ten sort of bell shaped cookies on a baking sheet. They look dry and not particularly attractive. \" width=\"474\" height=\"356\" srcset=\"https:\/\/blogs.library.duke.edu\/rubenstein\/files\/2020\/01\/finished_cookies-1024x768.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/blogs.library.duke.edu\/rubenstein\/files\/2020\/01\/finished_cookies-300x225.jpg 300w, https:\/\/blogs.library.duke.edu\/rubenstein\/files\/2020\/01\/finished_cookies-768x576.jpg 768w, https:\/\/blogs.library.duke.edu\/rubenstein\/files\/2020\/01\/finished_cookies-1536x1152.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/blogs.library.duke.edu\/rubenstein\/files\/2020\/01\/finished_cookies-2048x1536.jpg 2048w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 474px) 100vw, 474px\" \/><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-15241\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Unfortunately, they taste as good as they look.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<p>Described by taste-testers as \u201caggressively neutral\u201d and \u201ca bit dry,\u201d the dough was definitely the weak point in these cookies. \u201cYou almost get bored with it halfway through,\u201d one observed. Yet the cookies also had a confusingly familiar flavor to them; there was plenty of room for the individual housewife to give the recipe her own spin enough to call it her own. As another taste tester noted, the recipe is \u201cvery much of the era.\u201d<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>Post contributed by Ashton Merck, Graduate Intern for the Hartman Center for Sales, Advertising, and Marketing History In the mid-twentieth century, the Duke Power Company Home Service wished its customers a \u201cMerry Christmas\u201d and a \u201cHappy New Year\u201d with an annual collection of holiday recipes. The John W. Hartman Center has at least two of &hellip; <a href=\"https:\/\/blogs.library.duke.edu\/rubenstein\/2020\/01\/17\/rubenstein-library-test-kitchen-cooking-with-duke-power\/\" class=\"more-link\">Continue reading <span class=\"screen-reader-text\">Rubenstein Library Test Kitchen: Cooking with Duke Power<\/span> <span class=\"meta-nav\">&rarr;<\/span><\/a><\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":198,"featured_media":15232,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[551,43,553],"tags":[],"coauthors":[653],"class_list":["post-15230","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-featured","category-hartman","category-rubenstein-library-test-kitchen"],"yoast_head":"<!-- This site is optimized with the Yoast SEO plugin v27.1.1 - https:\/\/yoast.com\/product\/yoast-seo-wordpress\/ -->\n<title>Rubenstein Library Test Kitchen: Cooking with Duke Power - The Devil&#039;s Tale<\/title>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/blogs.library.duke.edu\/rubenstein\/2020\/01\/17\/rubenstein-library-test-kitchen-cooking-with-duke-power\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"en_US\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"Rubenstein Library Test Kitchen: Cooking with Duke Power - The Devil&#039;s Tale\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:description\" content=\"Post contributed by Ashton Merck, Graduate Intern for the Hartman Center for Sales, Advertising, and Marketing History In the mid-twentieth century, the Duke Power Company Home Service wished its customers a \u201cMerry Christmas\u201d and a \u201cHappy New Year\u201d with an annual collection of holiday recipes. 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The John W. 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